In late 2023, along with Tom Mouse and a group of fellow adventure motorcyclists, I rode my motorcycle the length of South America. I rode over 10,000 miles (16,000 kilometres) through South America. It was a fantastic adventure, over 3 months, travelling through six countries; Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina to Tierra del Fuego and Ushuaia, the most southerly city in the world. I experienced fantastic people & cultures, spectacular scenery, amazing roads, and extremes of weather. It was very challenging at times, but a real privilege to have been able to undertake such an incredible journey and with such a wonderful group of fellow adventure motorcyclists.
Pictures and commentary from the challenge are shown below:
Our motorcycles had been flown to Bogota, where our adventure starts. Sixteen bikes and one support vehicle, we head off north initially to Cartagena on Colombia’s Caribbean coast before turning south and heading for Ushuaia on the southern tip of South America and the “end of the world”!
First, get your bike to South America … bikes are delivered from Bogota airport, having been airfreighted from London, and some from the States, to our hotel.
Bike is ready … 10,000 miles to go! …
A visit to the plentiful Gold Museum in Bogota … loadsa spectacular exhibits, although I suspect there may be more Inca gold in Madrid.
The colonial Spanish dominance and cultural influence is very strong throughout much of South America. The Spanish Empire included large parts of South America, (Portugal colonised much of the east coast) from the late 15th century, with the arrival of Christopher Columbus in 1492, through to the early 19th century. Arguably gold was a key reason for the expansion of the Spanish Empire and its associated oppression, degradation and consequent reduction in the indigenous populations of South America.
Always a strong visible police and military presence in Bogota and across wider Colombia.
Dogs are popular in Bogota, indeed across Colombia and all of South America! The further South you travel the keener they seem to be on chasing motorcycles.
Fun trip on the funicular to overlook Bogota, Colombia’s capital, from Mount Monserrate (10341 feet / 3152 m).
The spectacular Salt Cathedral of Zipaquira, in Colombia. A Roman Catholic church completed in the 1950s, dug out below the mountains.
The Puente de Boyaca, where in 1819 under Simon Bolivar, troops beat the Spanish at the Battle of Boyaca, to finally achieve independence for “New Granada” from the Spanish Empire: New Granada corresponded to modern Colombia, Ecuador, Panama, Guyana and Venezuela.
Out on the road again ... Family transport …
Local at the petrol pump … people were invariably friendly and interested in us, as we were in them.
The beautiful town square at Villa de Levya, with clear Spanish style.
Handmade canoes being manufactured in rural Colombia.
Cartagena, a busy and vibrant city on the Caribbean coast, was a key city and port for the Spanish, founded in 1533 although with evidence of civilisations back to 4000BC. Its walled city and fortress are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Chillin’ out with Tom Mouse at the fabulous Santa Clara Hotel in the old town at Cartagena …
On the Caribbean coast ...
Heading south from the Caribbean coast, on primarily the Pan American Highway, we experienced temperatures of over 40C, as well as a half day of thunderous torrential rain.
Up above the clouds in wonderful Colombia
With the Colombian Army ...
Medellin Art; from sculptures by Botero (Medellin is his home town) through to fantastic street art.
Colourful housing on the outskirts of the town of Pasto, Colombia.
Preconceptions and concerns of Colombia being a place of drugs gangs and violence melted away as we got to see a wonderful country with friendly and welcoming people. The darker side of Colombia can still be found, and strong policing remains very evident, but my memories of Colombia and its people are very positive ones.
We stayed at the beautiful Hacienda Pinsaqui, near Otavalo in Ecuador, family owned for seven generations, where Simon Bolivar signed what was in effect Ecuador’s treaty of independence from Spain.
On the Equator! Zero degrees North / zero degrees of latitude.
PS You probably know this already but the equator runs through Ecuador, which is how the country got its name.
Ecuador’s capital Quito, with a population of 2.8m, is set into the Andean foothills (2,850m / 9,350ft) with surrounding mountains (over 4,000m / 13,123ft) providing a great vantage point above the city. Ecuador's total population is 17.8m.
Met a fantastic family when we had both stopped to admire the view. They insisted I had a seat in their truck for another photo!
The beautiful, stylish and vibrant colonial town of Cuenca, in Ecuador.
Another potential customer for Tom Mouse books, armed with stickers and a Tom Mouse card.
The beautiful colourful square, and inside of the church, at Trujillo, Peru.
Chan Chan, archeological site of the 20 sq km city of the Chimor Empire of the 9th century, along with a scale model.
The reed boats and fishermen at Huanchaco, Peru.
Riding the infamous Canyon del Pato … “Duck Canyon”!
An 11 mile gravel driveway to the oasis at Empedrada Lodge and fruit farm, near Barranca, Peru.
The Inca fortress town of Ollantaytambo, Peru, and a couple of residents.
Improvisation …
Enterprising girl in Cusco in national dress.
Cusco, once the capital of the Inca Empire, now a bustling tourist centre and point of departure for Machu Picchu and other historic sites.
Cusco still has a number of historic Inca sites including the Coriconcha (the Temple of the Sun – circa 13th century) and Saksaywaman citadel (circa 15th century).
Wild wee dugs in Cusco …
Great to meet up again with Willo, our guide on my 2008 trek to Machu Picchu – he’s not changed!
Fun also to have my photo taken again some 15 years later with the same Inca bloke – 2008 and 2023 photos are shown. (I still didn't get a discount ...)
High above The Sacred Valley of the Incas.
High altitude toilet.
Tourism Police ... !
Fabulous boat trip out from Puno, Peru, to the remarkable reed islands on Lake Titicaca, where the engaging and enterprising Uros people live.
Lake Titicaca is over 115 miles long and some 50 miles wide, and up to 930 feet deep.
Copacabana (not the Barry Manilow one) on the shore of Lake Titicaca, Bolivia. Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world at 3,812m (12,507ft).
Cross channel ferry! ... Great fun taking the bikes across the Strait of Tiquina, a short stretch of Lake Titicaca, as we head for La Paz.
Wonderful La Paz, Bolivia. Bolivia has a population of only 12 million and is the poorest of the South American countries we visit. The capital, Sucre, has a population of 0.26 million whereas La Paz, the seat of government and de facto capital, including its wider metropolitan areas, has a population of 2.2 million. La Paz is the highest capital city in the world at 3,650m (11,975ft).
A few of the 2.2 million people in La Paz ...
Gold Miners, in conflict with their Bolivian government, block the main road to La Paz with rocks. Motorcycles are allowed to go through!
We stayed at the unique Palacio de Sal, the first salt hotel in the world!
Due to a Bolivian government levy, fuel prices in Bolivia are circa double for international visitors.
One of my favourite places, playing about on the Salt Flats at Uyuni, Bolivia.
The Salt Flats at Uyuni are the largest in the world at over 4,000 square miles. (for comparison the Bonneville flats in the USA are some 40 square miles).
A fascinating place and for so many reasons: the engineering history; the elegant and inelegant ageing; the dreams. I could have spent a great deal more time here.
The Train Graveyard at Uyuni, with around 100 engines and carriages. … Most of the trains came from Britain and were part of a planned expansion of the railways in South America with the town of Uyuni as a major hub, supporting the likes of the mining industry and linking east and west across the continent. The programme however never came to fruition as the mining industry slowed and there were disputes with neighbouring countries.
Some more wacky desert stuff ... and the Head of Security at our hotel.
Another potential Tom Mouse customer, fully equipped with sticker & card.
At “The Amphitheatre” (El Anfiteatro) and the nearby the “Devil’s Throat” (Garganta Del Diablo).
On the Tropic of Capricorn … just over 23 degrees south of the equator, and marks the most southerly latitude at which the sun can appear directly overhead at noon. This event occurs at the December solstice, when the southern hemisphere is tilted towards the sun to its maximum extent … don’t you know.
Church on the square in the town of Cafayate, Argentina.
Wine production in Cafayate, Argentina …
Refuelling in Argentina … when petrol is available, it is cheap. But Argentina’s 140 percent inflation is an indication of a national economy in severe difficulty.
Young enthusiast ...
More beautiful desert landscapes in Argentina ... with a dust storm, literally sandblasting us.
A fun and spectacular border crossing is the one between Argentina (Route 7) and Chile (Route 60), where the national border is in the middle of a 3km long tunnel (Tunel del Cristo Redentor) running under the Andes Mountains and near to Aconcagua (6,961m / 22,838ft, the highest mountain outside of Asia).
Spectacular, (& loud!) waterfalls at Saltos del Laya, Chile. Switched to BMX for the day!
Happy surprise to come across an old steam engine, at Saltos del Laya, manufactured by Shuttleworth in the 19th century in the UK.
Highly enjoyable fete and festivities in Cherquenco village, Chile.
The beautiful Villarrica volcano is one of Chile’s most active.
I have always loved the Monkey Puzzle tree (we have one in our garden) or as it is correctly known, the Chilean Pine (… Araucaria Araucana if you are a Roman). The Chilean Pine is the national tree of Chile. A forest of Chilean Pines is just beautiful.
Fab chocolate & ice cream shop in Bariloche …
Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid (outlaws from the US in the late 19th and early 20th century) hid out here in Argentina. Although disputed it is generally believed that they were eventually killed in Bolivia by a unit of the Bolivian Army in November 1908. (Check out the film with Paul Newman & Robert Redford if you have a spare Sunday afternoon.)
We were joined by Bellon (name means “fleece”) the sheep dog / alarm clock, adding to the fun!
We were also lucky enough to see several magnificent condors soaring above us. The Andean condor wingspan can be up to 3.2m / 10ft 5in.
Very homely on a working estancia (estate) where we stayed in La Angostura, in Argentina.
Sun down at the estancia …
Refuelling at the estancia.
Part of our journey was following some of National Route 40 or “Ruta 40”. It runs for over 5,200 km / 3,200 miles down the west side of Argentina, parallel to the Andes Mountains, and is regarded as one of the world’s classic road trips. We also rode on the parallel running Carretera Austral, Chile's Route 7.
Moody skies over El Calafate … amazing lenticular clouds …
The stunning Perito Moreno Glacier …
The scale and beauty of the Perito Moreno Glacier, in Argentine Patagonia, cannot be fully conveyed through photographs. The glacier covers an area of over 250 square kilometres; the ice is up to 700m thick; the ice at the front of the glacier rises to over 70m above the lake’s surface; dating from at least the last ice age it is estimated that the glacier is circa 18,000 years old. Sadly, the Perito Moreno Glacier began to retreat in 2020.
Petroleum and natural gas extraction provides 20% of Tierra del Fuego’s economy.
Tierra del Fuego, “Land of Fire”, is an archipelago and forms South America’s southernmost tip, and is part of Patagonia. It is separated from the rest of South America by the Strait of Magellan.
The stunningly beautiful Torres del Paine National Park. The park is in southern Chilean Patagonia and covers over 700 square miles and includes glaciers, mountains, lakes and rivers.
Patagonia, (over 400,000 square miles / 1,000,000 square kilometres) is a geographical area that encompasses the southern end of South America, and is governed by Argentina and Chile. It comprises the southern end of the Andes Mountains and is bounded by the Pacific Ocean on the west and the Atlantic Ocean on the east.
The amazing blue lakes of Torres del Paine, fed by active glaciers. Finely ground rock powder known as rock flour left from glacial erosion is suspended in the water giving its strong turquoise colour.
UFO like lenticular clouds caused in part by airflow over the high mountains setting up vertical standing waves.
Over the bridge; in the background are the magnificent three granite peaks of the Torres del Paine / the Towers of the Paine Mountains (2,500 metres / 8,500 feet).
Cuernos del Paine / the Paine Horns in the background …
It gets very windy in Patagonia and the Torres del Paine …
Sculptures in Puerto Natales.
Ship wreck on the shore of the Strait of Magellan.
Strait of Magellan, named after Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan who in 1520 was the first European to discover this navigable sea route between the Atlantic and the Pacific.
Sundial at the Strait of Magellan ferry crossing … on board with Tom Mouse.
A visit to the fabulous and thought provoking Nao Victoria Museum in Punta Arenas, Chile, which includes a number of full sized replicas of historic ships related to Chile.
The collection includes Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan’s ship, the Nao Victoria. (original built in 1519), the first ship to circumnavigate the world.
A replica of HMS Beagle, the original was launched in 1820 from Woolwich Dockyard, and carried naturalist Charles Darwin around the world on a five year voyage, playing a key enabling role in the formation of his scientific theories on evolution and natural selection.
A replica of the “James Caird”, the original was a converted lifeboat from Sir Ernest Shackleton’s ship Endurance.
In late 1915 Shackleton’s ship, Endurance, was crushed in the ice in the Weddell Sea in Antarctica. Shackleton and five crew members sailed over 800 miles to South Georgia raising the alarm, eventually leading to all crew members being rescued from Elephant Island in August 1916, in what is still recognised as the greatest feat of survival in maritime history.
A visit to the fantastic Martillo Island in the Beagle Channel, which under careful guidance allowed us to get up close to three types of penguin; Magellanic penguins (the wee ones who live underground, and are also seen on the beach), Gentoo penguins (the larger ones, with orange feet and beaks), and a solitary King penguin (which looks similar to the Emperor penguin).
The island is on part of the 22,000 acre Harberton estancia (estate) which was established by Thomas Briggs (an Anglican missionary, and the first white person to settle in Tierra del Fuego) in 1886, and is now run by the sixth generation of the family.
Monument to the ancient and pioneer settlers of Ushuaia. It was not just the indigenous people, and the Spanish and the Portuguese, that shaped South America, people from many other nations have made a significant impact too.
Tank bag “big map” and Sat Nav screen show the enormity of what we have achieved.
The fabulous Team … at the “end of the road” sign just outside Ushuaia. (The most southerly piece of road on mainland South America.)
… happy to have reached the end of the road in South America, after over 10,000 miles motorcycling over 10 weeks through 6 countries, and feeling so privileged to have completed such a fantastic adventure.
… Tom Mouse at the “End of the World” in Ushuaia … “I wonder where our next fantastic adventure will be?”
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